Understanding Hormones and Your Skin

“How to achieve beautiful, supple and young-looking skin”. You almost can’t avoid it - splashed on magazine covers, reported in newspapers and marketed on television and radio, the message to improve our skin would appear paramount to how we and others view our looks.
How does our skin age?  Skin aging is influenced by:

* Genetic differences
* Hormonal changes, e.g. estrogen and thyroxin
* Chronic sun exposure
* Wind, pollution

Blame it on hormones

Hormones are mostly to blame for skin changes as we age. Hormones are chemical messengers produced in organs such as the ovaries, adrenal glands, and thyroid glands, and all have an effect on other tissues.

Much of the reason why our skin begins to suffer is primarily due to hormones — and there is a massive industry manufacturing products to try to alleviate the results of these hormonal changes, notably as women reach menopause in their 40s and 50s.

As menopause occurs, estrogen is reduced and while it has a direct effect on thinning bones, it also creates significant changes in the skin. Women find:

* their skin becomes drier with increased wrinkles
* skin becomes more fragile, loses some of its elasticity, and is looser because the production of collagen is reduced
* older skin appears paler as the lack of estrogen reduces the number of blood vessels in the skin
* menopause also causes a reduction in the level of testosterone but not as significant a drop as in estrogen

Hormones and dry skin

Another hormone we have is thyroxin, produced by the thyroid gland, which influences skin appearance. Too much thyroxin shows a warm, smooth, sweaty, flushed skin. Under-activity of thyroxin produces a dry, coarse thickening of skin with reduced ability to sweat.

Hormones affect acne

The oil glands of the skin are in part controlled by the level and activity of the hormone testosterone in the skin. Testosterone is required to produce acne. This outcome can be seen in conditions such as polycystic ovary syndrome, which produce some elevation in testosterone, which in turn causes increased facial hair, irregular periods and acne. It has also been found that some birth control pills can block testosterone skin reactors to improve some of the consequences of increasing hormone levels. (See Acne Guide for more acne information)
Thinning hair

Hair will thin after menopause. In some women, genetic factors produce significant thinning. Abnormalities in the level of a thyroid hormone, in addition to the amount of iron stored in the body, can influence the volume of hair.

Estrogen encourages hair to stay in its growing phase (Anagen hair). This is seen in the significant thickening of hair towards the end of pregnancy. After menopause, however, the lower estrogen amount allows the scalp hair to grow towards the falling out stage (Telogen hair).
HRT and skin

Post menopausal women will notice that unlike their scalp, facial hairs increase. This is thought to be because estrogen — which opposes the effect of testosterone — drops relatively more after menopause than testosterone.

Hormone replacement therapy (HRT) has been used over the last 20 years to combat the signs of aging. HRT can promote a fuller-looking skin because the skin then becomes thicker with less loss of subcutaneous fat. Thinning and drying of vaginal surfaces is also minimized. This can also be achieved by using topical estrogen. The use of estrogen creams has been shown to maintain the elasticity and fullness of skin after menopause, although at this time it is not used extensively because of concerns about side effects and the variability of absorption into the body.

See your doctor or dermatologist to determine which solutions best suits your experience with aging skin.

By Richard Thomas, MD

A Scientific Look at Moisturizers Pt. 2

Emollients and Occlusives

Emollients

Emollients, which are mainly lipids and oils, hydrate and improve the appearance of the skin by contributing to skin softness, enhanced flexibility, and smoothness. The “skin slip” or lubricity of some moisturizers, contributes to consumer satisfaction and product preference.5 Consumers desire smooth skin following moisturizer application. Emollients serve to fill the cracks between clusters of desquamating corneocytes and are not usually occlusive unless applied heavily.

Long chain saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols are commonly used in topical pharmaceuticals and cosmetic formulations. They exert their benefits through effects on the skin barrier, partially through improved repair, and on permeability. Examples include stearic, linoleic, linolenic, oleic, and lauric, which can be found in palm oil, coconut oil, and wool fat. A sterol-enriched fraction from canola oil reduced clinical signs of sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)-induced irritation. Other lipids (e.g., fish oil, petrolatum, shea butter, and sunflower seed oil) had no effect on the degree of irritation. Loden and Andersson suggested that canola oil assisted the skin in supplying the damaged barrier with adequate lipids. Essential fatty acids (i.e., linoleic and alpha-linoleic acids) influence skin physiology and pathology via their effects on skin barrier functions, eicosanoid production, membrane fluidity, and cell signaling.

Occlusives

Occlusives reduce TEWL by creating a hydrophobic barrier over the skin and contributing to the matrix between corneocytes, and have the most pronounced effect when applied to slightly dampened skin. There is a wide range of agents with occlusive properties. Their main limitations include odor, potential allergenicity, and the greasy feel associated with most occlusives.

Astringent Emollients
Cyclomethicone, dimethicone, isopropyl myristate, octyl octanoate

Dry Emollients
Decyl oleate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl alcohol

Fatting Emollients
Castor oil, glyceryl stearate, jojoba oil, octyl stearate, propylene glycol

Protective Emollients
Diisopropyl dilinoleate, isopropyl isostearate

Protein Rejuvenators
Collagen, elastin, keratin

Common substances with emollient properties
Fatty Acids
Lanolin acid, stearic acid
Fatty Alcohols
Cetyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, stearyl alcohol
Hydrocarbon Oils/ Waxes
Caprylic/capric triglyderide, mineral oil, paraffin, petrolatum, silicone derivatives (cyclomethicone, dimethicone), squalene

Common substances with occlusive properties

Petroleum jelly, in a minimum concentration of 5%, reduces TEWL by more than 98% and is the most effective occlusive, followed by lanolin, mineral oil, and silicones (e.g., dimethicone), which only reduce TEWL by 20%-30%. Occlusives are thought to diffuse into the intercellular lipid domains, thus contributing to their efficacy. Petrolatum is widely used as a classic moisturizer. Lanolin, a complex structure of esters, diesters, and hydroxyesters of high molecular weight, lanolin alcohols, and lanolin acids, is also widely used and quite effective.

Humectants

Humectants are able to attract water from two sources: they enhance water absorption from the dermis into the epidermis, and in humid conditions they also help the SC to absorb water from the external environment. Many humectants also have emollient properties. The most effective humectant is the trihydroxylated molecule, glycerol. Immature corneocytes are fragile but mature into more resilient and protective cells as they migrate through the SC. Glycerol hastens the maturity of corneocytes through the activation of residual transglutaminase activity in the SC.18 Also, by facilitating the digestion of desmosomes and subsequently enhancing desquamation, glycerol reduces the scaling associated with xerosis.

Gelatin
Glycerin
Honey
Hyaluronic acid
Panthenol
Propylene glycol
Sodium and ammonium lactate
Sodium pyrrolidine carboxylic acid
Sorbital
Urea

Common substances with humectant properties
Found in the NMF, pyrrolidine carboxylic acid hydrates the skin, and has been shown to improve xerosis.20 Urea is another important humectant. In double-blind studies moisturizers with urea have been shown to reduce TEWL in atopic and ichthyotic patients,21,22 and reduce SLS-induced skin irritation.

Alpha hydroxy acids (e.g., lactate) are effective agents for the treatment of dry skin; following treatment with lotions containing D-, L-lactic acid, the SC prevents xerosis more effectively. Lactic acid, particularly the L-isomer, stimulates ceramide biosynthesis leading to higher SC ceramide levels that result in a superior lipid barrier and more effective resistance against xerosis.

One major drawback of humectants is that some of them can increase TEWL3 by enhancing water absorption from the dermis into the epidermis where it can then be lost into the environment. For this reason, they are almost always combined with an occlusive agent. Occlusive and humectant ingredients work together to enhance epidermal hydration and barrier function.

A Scientific Look at Moisturizers (pt.1)

Moisturizers are widely used products that are important in many dermatologic and cosmetic skin therapies. They contain varying combinations of emollients, occlusives, and humectants to achieve their beneficial effects, and there is an overwhelming number of formulations available. To develop a rational approach for prescribing moisturizers, commercially available products can be categorized on the basis of application site.

There is a vast array of moisturizers available on the market today and consumer demand for these products is growing. These products range from value brands that provide basic moisturization to luxury therapeutics with claims of anti-aging benefits. A recent US study found that moisturizers are the third most commonly recommended OTC topical skin product (13.4%) behind hydrocortisone (27.6%) and anti-infectives (23.4%).

What Are Moisturizers?

The term moisturizer is a marketing term with little or no scientific meaning. Consumers see moisturizers as actively increasing the water content of the skin. Dermatologists see moisturizers as bland oleaginous substances that are applied to the skin by rubbing. The term “moisturizer” does not necessarily imply that moisture or water is being added to the skin. Moisturizers are a key component of basic skin care especially when there is alteration of the epidermal barrier and reduced water content in the epidermis.
They are used to restore the barrier function of the epidermis, to cover tiny fissures in the skin, provide a soothing protective film, and increase the water-content of the epidermis. They may, thus, slow evaporation of the skin’s moisture, thereby maintaining hydration and improving the appearance and tactile properties of dry and aging skin. Newer products claim to have other properties such as anti-aging, skin-firming, anticellulite, and sun-protectant effects.

How Do Moisturizers Work?

For many years, epidermal water content has been known to be crucial for skin plasticity and the prevention of “dry skin”. Traditionally, moisturization was believed to inhibit transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by occlusion. Water originates in the deeper epidermal layers and moves upward to hydrate cells in the stratum corneum (SC), eventually being lost to evaporation.

The SC architecture is the most important factor in water flux and retention in the skin, and in overall level of moisturization. The four key processes for the formation and functioning of the SC are the corneocyte process, SC lipid process, natural moisturizing factor (NMF) process, and desquamation process. Corneocytes are the physical barrier of the SC and, when hydrated, contribute to elasticity. The lipid bilayers of the SC function as a moisture barrier and although they prevent the entry of many chemicals, they are the means of entry for most topically applied substances. The NMF is found within corneocytes and is a mix of hygroscopic molecules that, by helping maintain hydration in the corneocyte, keep the SC hydrated. Half of the NMF is amino acids derived from the protein filaggrin in keratinocytes, and the other half is salts, including lactates, urea, and electrolytes. Production of NMF is directly related to external humidity. In desquamation, corneodesmosomes are degraded by water-dependent hydrolytic agents. When there is low moisture in the SC, these enzymes do not work efficiently. Corneocytes accumulate on the skin surface producing the signs of dry skin, e.g., when the moisture content is less than 10%, and when there is loss of continuity of the SC.

The moisturizing treatment involves repairing the skin barrier, retaining/increasing water content, reducing TEWL, restoring the lipid barriers’ ability to attract, hold and redistribute water, and maintaining skin integrity and appearance. Moisturizers perform these functions by acting as humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Moisturizers containing collagen and other proteins, i.e., keratin and elastin, claim to rejuvenate the skin by replenishing its essential proteins but whether or not they have any effect on skin hydration is questionable. Moisturizers also act to reduce skin friction and increase skin hydration by providing water directly to the skin from their water phase and by increasing occlusion, as measured as a decrease in TEWL. Loden suggests that skin care products not only form an inert, epicutaneous layer, but that they also penetrate and influence the structure and function of the skin.

Moisturizers have little effect on the mechanical properties (i.e., distensibility, hysteresis, and elasticity) of the skin but do increase skin hydration significantly, as shown by an increased skin capacitance.10 When moisturizers are used to improve skin plasticity it is suggested that lipid-rich formulations be used.

Emollients

Emollients, which are mainly lipids and oils, hydrate and improve the appearance of the skin by contributing to skin softness, enhanced flexibility, and smoothness. The “skin slip” or lubricity of some moisturizers, contributes to consumer satisfaction and product preference. Consumers desire smooth skin following moisturizer application. Emollients serve to fill the cracks between clusters of desquamating corneocytes and are not usually occlusive unless applied heavily.

Long chain saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols are commonly used in topical pharmaceuticals and cosmetic formulations. They exert their benefits through effects on the skin barrier, partially through improved repair, and on permeability. Examples include stearic, linoleic, linolenic, oleic, and lauric, which can be found in palm oil, coconut oil, and wool fat. A sterol-enriched fraction from canola oil reduced clinical signs of sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)-induced irritation. Other lipids (e.g., fish oil, petrolatum, shea butter, and sunflower seed oil) had no effect on the degree of irritation. Loden and Andersson suggested that canola oil assisted the skin in supplying the damaged barrier with adequate lipids. Essential fatty acids (i.e., linoleic and alpha-linoleic acids) influence skin physiology and pathology via their effects on skin barrier functions, eicosanoid production, membrane fluidity, and cell signaling.

Next article will focus on emollients, occlusives, and humectants and what an ideal moisturizer should be….

J. N. Kraft, BSc (Hons)1 and C. W. Lynde, MD, FRCPC2
1Faculty of Medicine, University of Toronto, Toronto, Ontario, Canada
2University Health Network (Western Division) and Department of Dermatology, University of Toronto, Toronto, Ontario, Canada

End of Summer Skincare and Zinc Sun Protection

By Van Le | Labor Day can be bittersweet since it offers an always-welcomed three-day weekend, but it also marks the unofficial end of summer. In other words, after one last frolic at the beach, it’s time to put away the swimming suits and flip-flops, and wake the winter coats and boots from their hiatus. The seasonal closet makeover is a no-brainer, but there’s another place that needs attention: your makeup and skincare cabinet. Towards the end of the year, your skin needs protection from cold weather and reduced humidity. Switching to winter-friendly products can keep your skin looking healthy and beautiful.

Hot, humid weather during the summer can cause pores to expand because sebum is more fluid in this environment. As a result, deep cleansers and foamy cleansing products are appropriate, since they are able to reach deep into the pores, eliminating dirt and oil buildups. During the winter, however, cold temperatures can lead to dry and cracked skin. Switch to a mild soap, and your skin will feel smooth and soft as opposed to dry and tight after washing. Products that contain natural moisture such as Aloe vera are also excellent, since they are not harsh on dry, winter skin.

Winter air literally sucks moisture from your skin, so moisturizing is a crucial step in winter skin care. Even more important to moisturizing is choosing the right product. Products containing mineral oil, almond oil, or avocado oil work especially well since they keep the skin hydrated without clogging pores. Flaxseed oil is another beneficial ingredient, since it is not only rich in omega-3 fatty acid, but also has the ability to hydrate the skin from the inside out. Moisturizing right after a warm shower will help seal in the water and prevent dry skin. Also consider using a humidifier in your room or office, since it returns the moisture into the air and help the skin stay hydrated.

Just because it is cold outside does not mean you should toss your sunscreen tube. Even when you can’t feel the heat, the sun is still emitting harmful UVA and UVB rays, so it still important to protect your skin. Apply a moisturizer that contains an SPF of at least 15, or use products containing zinc oxide, which acts as a natural barrier between your skin and the sun. Surprisingly, the sun’s reflective power on snow can be as high as 80%, so it is possible to be sunburned after spending a day on the ski slopes without sun protection. Moreover, don’t forget to help your lips battle harsh winter conditions with plenty of lip balm. Packaging is also important when deciding on a lip balm. Little tins and jars can spread germs since you are using your fingers to apply. Tubes can be a healthier and more convenient option. Remember to keep your skincare products readily available in your purse, car or desk so you can reapply throughout the day.

Winter skin care may differ from summer skin care in the type of products used, but the regimen for healthy skin is the same year round: cleanse, moisturize and protect.

Van Le is a staff writer for the CSU paper the Daily Titan and writing intern for Vivoderm Laboratories in Los Angeles, California. She is currently pursuing a Journalism degree at California State University, Fullerton.

For the latest findings on natural skincare link to http://www.bestnaturalsoap.net

Psoriasis Facts

Psoriasis is a common, chronic, non-contagious, reoccurring skin condition consisting of red, scaly, well defined, thickened areas of varying sizes. Any part of your skin on the body and on your nails can be affected. Arthritis may be associated with your psoriasis. The scalp, elbows, knees and lower back are commonly affected, but the face is usually not.

Key Points:

• Psoriasis is chronic and reoccurring
• It produces red, scaly, well defined patches
• Psoriasis can affect any part of the skin on your body,
• particularly the scalp, elbows, knees and lower back
• It may include nail involvement and arthritis

Who Can Get Psoriasis?

Psoriasis affects approximately 2% of the population, men and women in any age group can be affected. One type of psoriasis usually begins between the ages of 20 and 30 and runs in families, but the inheritance is variable. A number of genetic associations for example, a gene called HLA-Cw6 has been linked. Approximately 30% of people with this condition also have a first degree relative (that is parents, brothers, sisters and children) with psoriasis.

If you have an identical twin with psoriasis, the chance that you also have the condition is about 70%, while the risk for a twin who is not identical, is about 25%. The severity of psoriasis may vary between family members. For example, one member might have a very mild disease with only a couple of lesions, while another member might be covered with psoriasis. A second type typically begins around age 60 and does not run in families.

What Causes Psoriasis?

Psoriasis is an autoimmune condition involving the T-lymphocyte, a type of white blood cell.

Normally, the time between manufacturing and shedding skin cells is about 28 days. In psoriasis, the process is approximately 7 times faster, the outer cells are poorly formed and don’t shed properly. They tend to pile up on the skin producing the scale.

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Combination Skin Causes and Care

It can be utterly frustrating to deal with combination skin; one day it is dry and tight, the next it is oily and blotchy. Seasonal weather changes only serve to make matters worse. Your skin can wrinkle in some areas and flake in others. If that’s the case, then you may have combination skin - varying skin conditions in different zones of the face. But not to worry; combination skin is quite common. In fact, more people have this skin type than any other.

Combination skin is characterized by a mixture of oiliness and dryness. Typically, the oily areas tend to be the T-zone, consisting of the forehead, nose and chin. The cheeks are normal to dry. The degrees of oiliness and dryness can vary. Pores may be larger in the oily areas - with pimples, blackheads and breakouts sometimes occurring - and dry areas may feel rough and irritated.

The “tissue test” can help you determine if you have combination skin. Take a tissue and hold/press it against your face. If there’s oil on the tissue where it touched your T-zone, but no oil where the tissue touched your cheeks, you most likely have combination skin.

Causes

Many factors can cause combination skin, including hormones, age, genetics, the way in which lipids are organized in our skin and even the weather. Hormonal changes can lead to changes in skin’s oiliness or dryness. Teens and young adults tend to have oilier skin, especially in the T-zone, but with age, hormones change and the oil production may decrease (but unfortunately, acne is still an issue for many adults). Also, hormones change due to menstruation and the birth control pill, which can make skin oilier in certain areas. Lipids also play a role in combination skin: These proteins affect skin’s softness and feel. When lipids aren’t evenly spread throughout the skin, certain areas will feel drier and rougher, while other areas may feel soft but oily or greasy. The organization of lipids in skin is due to genetics and hormones. Finally, weather can exacerbate combination skin. Dry cold weather can cause skin to dry out and become irritated. Conversely, hot humid weather can increase oil production. This can affect your T-zone as well as your cheeks.

Care Plan

Combination skin requires special care to balance the oily and dry areas of the face. Proper cleansing, treatment, moisturizing and sun protection are all necessary.

• Cleansing: People with combination skin often have difficulty finding a cleanser that works for their unique skin needs. Formulas designed for oily skin may leave combination skin too dry, especially in the cheeks, while formulas designed for dry skin may leave combination skin greasy, especially in the T-zone. It’s best to avoid products that are either too drying or too rich. Instead, use a foaming or gel cleanser to get rid of dirt and oil without causing irritation or dryness. A cleanser to try is one that removes excess oil and impurities while still being gentle and not drying out skin.

You should also exfoliate your skin regularly to remove dry, dead, rough skin cells. These cells may be particularly prominent on your cheeks. They can flake off and block pores, causing blemishes and blackheads. Try a product that might include papaya and pineapple juice, olive derivatives and Ginkgo Bilbao.

• Treatments: Treatment products are another important skincare component, helping to balance your skin. One treatment to try is one which moisturizes dry areas but prevents excess oil, especially in the T-zone. This product also contains antioxidants to prevent aging. Another type of treatment is a mask, and you’ll find an array of products for every skin type. Some experts advise using a hydrating/moisturizing mask on dry areas (cheeks) and a deep-cleaning clay mask on oily areas (T-zone). While using two different masks is certainly an option, you can also use a mask specifically designed for combination skin. If you suffer from breakouts, which may occur around the T-zone, use acne treatment products with salicylic acid. For problem skin, try a blemish serum or a spot treatment.
  
  
• Moisturize: Combination skin needs balance, and part of that balance means moisturizing your skin. Moisturizing is especially important for drier areas of the face, but your entire face needs moisture. Some experts suggest using separate moisturizers - a lightweight one for the T-zone and a deeper one for cheeks. You may choose to use separate moisturizers, but you can also use a single moisturizer designed for combination skin. Try a lotion which balances skin with witch hazel and aloe extract to help skin stay soft. Pay careful attention to dry areas, as they may require more frequent moisturizing than oily areas. Generally, experts recommend moisturizing dry areas twice a day and moisturizing oily areas once a day. Keep in mind that your individual skin has unique needs, so you might want to adjust your moisturizer - how often you use it, where you need it and how much you need.
• Sun Protection: Like all other skin types, combination skin needs protection from the sun. UVA and UVB rays can damage skin, so use oil-free sunblock all over your face daily (and on any other exposed areas). Try an oil-free sunlotion or sunblock because it protects your skin from UV rays and won’t make skin greasy.

Natural Treatments

Natural treatments such as aromatherapy oils, home-made exfoliants and masks may help treat your combination skin. For example, try mixing essential oils like chamomile, lavender and ylang ylang (just a few drops) together with your oil-free moisturizer. These ingredients have antibacterial properties and may help to rid skin of dirt or bacteria. However, if your skin is sensitive or easily irritated, or if you’re pregnant, you shouldn’t use these essential oils.

Exfoliating treatments can be made at home by mixing and grinding nuts, seeds or oatmeal along with water. These will slough off dead, dry skin cells - especially common around the cheeks. You can add citrus peels from fruit - like orange or grapefruit - to the mix and apply it to the oily T-zone.

To make a mask for dry areas, use ingredients like yogurt, mashed bananas or avocados to moisturize. On oilier areas, try pureed strawberries and apples.

Eliminating Allergens and Chemicals for Sensitive Skin

If you suffer from sensitive or dry, delicate skin, you already know how difficult it can be to find a skin care product that does not cause a negative reaction. However, have you considered many other kinds of chemicals you are exposed to every day? Many unsuspecting products, like household cleaners, air pollution and even industrial chemicals in your furniture can induce inflammation in susceptible individuals. If you suffer from dry or sensitive skin, you are more at risk for reactions, especially if you are already experiencing extreme dryness or eczema symptoms.

To repair your natural skin barrier, you must first take active steps to build it up by eating healthy fats – like olives, avocados and raw nuts or butters and engaging in a natural healthy diet to start. To further help your condition, review the dermatological list below to identify, and where possible, eliminate allergy-causing ingredients. Whether what you experience is merely a sensitivity or full-blown allergic reaction, try to eliminate anything that causes inflammation and can degrade your skin barrier – and its ability to protect you from harmful irritants. Give your skin a chance to heal by protecting it from things that may cause a reaction.

1. Eliminate chemical ingredients in skin care and perfumes – including parabens and all manner of chemical substances until you have narrowed down your reactions.

2. Eliminate problem ingredients in soaps, shampoo, bath, body care, dental, shaving, and conditioning products and medications. Avoid products that foam or contain detergents. Always rinse thoroughly after cleansing and shampooing. Protect your skin with moisturizer afterwards.

3. Avoid direct contact with dish and laundry detergents, household cleansing products, paints, strippers, furniture polishes, and other ingredients containing harsh chemicals. Wear gloves, moisturize, or avo: altogether. Studies show that residual detergent remaining in launderei clothing may be a prime contributor to eczema. Rinse your clothing twice if your washing machine allows.

4. Notice whether fabrics in clothing, furniture, or bedding are irritating your skin due to their rough texture or chemicals treating them. Use hypoallergenic protectors on mattresses and large furniture if this is the case.

5. Pay attention to contact allergies from jewelry, flatware, and coins or metals containing nickel, a common allergen. Some are allergic to gold, so always be aware of unsuspecting culprits.

6.  Only use quality filtered water and avoid hard water when possible. Chlorinated water, excessively hot water, or long soaks in baths, showers, or hot tubs, can strip precious oils from your skin.

If you consider all these factors and use them diligently, your skin barrier can be restored and you may be able to withstand common irritants and practices. But for now, notice what chemicals irritate you and avoid contact with them at all costs in order to give your skin a chance to rebuild itself. If you are unable to address your symptom on your own, ask a professional dermatologist about patch testing, which can help you determine exactly what your allergies may be.

Retinoids and Dry Skin

Dry skin recommendations and supplements that can help your skin

RETINOIDS
The group of medicines known as retinoids are derived from Vitamin A. Creams containing the retinoids retinol and retinaldehyde can be obtained over the counter at pharmacies and supermarkets. Other topical retinoids containing tretinoin or isotretinoin require a doctor’s prescription. Adapalene is a related prescription medicine.  Topical retinoids can be applied to any area but are most often used on the face, the neck and the back of hands.

When you first start using the retinoid, apply your night cream first then re-apply the retinoid. Do this every third night for two weeks. Then apply moisturizer followed by retinoid every other night. If no redness occurs after two weeks you can adjust your regimen and apply the retinoid after cleansing but before your night cream. Then apply the night cream after the retinoid. Do this, using the retinoid every other day, for one week.

If you experience redness or flaking, begin using the retinoid every night. In about twenty-four weeks you will notices fewer wrinkles and smoother skin as well as preventing future wrinkles. Since retinoids speed up the rare at which skin cells divide, some flaking is normal. This flaking is not additional dryness, but rather dead skin cells sloughing off. You can use a facial scrub once or twice a week before an important event to remove these fakes, allowing your skin to look radiant. Stronger products are more irritating than those with a lower percentage of retinoids, so you can switch products depending on your needs.

Healthy Diet Helps Dry Skin

There are lots of things you can do with your diet and supplements that can help your dry skin. To combat dry skin, your body needs fats to build fat-rich cells that hold on to moisture. Saturated, monounsaturated and omega-3 fats are key components in the cell membranes . Vegetarians (who eat eggs and dairy products but not meat) eat about one-third less saturated fat than the average meat eater. Vegans (who eat no animal products of any kind) only receive about one half as much saturated fat as the average meat-eating American. As a result, they obtain from their diet much less cholesterol than omnivores.

Although cholesterol has received a bad name due to concerns about its connection with cardiovascular illness, recent studies show that it does have benefits, particularly for some post menopausal women. Cholesterol is needed for key body functions within the cellular membranes that impact the skin. For example, studies show that cholesterol-lowering drugs can lead to dry skin, while decreased levels of essential fatty acids have been associated with dry skin, dry hair, and brittle nails. If you have these symptoms and you are a vegetarian you may want to speak to your doctor to see if you may suffer from an essential fatty acid deficiency.

The best way to assure you get a healthy diet of skin-enhancing  fats is by eating a wide variety of whole plant foods. You can get fats from nuts, seeds, olives and avocados Use olive oil, replete with monosaturated fat, for cooking and salad dressings. Coconut oil is also an excellent alternative for it retains its stability at high temperatures. Try to avoid processed  foods and deep-fried foods that are rich in trans fats and omega-6 polyunsaturated fats. These fats contribute to the production of free radicals, the by-products of oxidation, which is a skin aging process that antioxidant vegetables help tame. Although for many years polyunsaturated vegetable oils, like canola, corn, safflower, and soy were recommended, canola oil is actually unstable when heated and the processed used to stabilize it turns a certain percentage of the oil into a trans fat.

Eating the undesirable fats found in these oils (as well in trans-fat containing foods such as margarine, most baked goods, fried foods, processed foods and sweets )may increase both wrinkling and the risk of developing skin and other cancers including melanoma. Vegetarians can eat eggs and dairy to obtain saturated fats while vegans can obtain them from coconut oil.

Fish oils are good sources of omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids which can increase the lipid content of your cells. They can be obtained from fish like salmon, as well as supplements with Omega-3 or Cod Liver Oil capsules. Omega-3s help your skin by providing essential fats needed for cellular integrity while they also prevent inflammation which can lead to the formation of dark spots in pigmented skin types.
Antioxidants are helpful in fighting free radicals - renegade oxygen molecules that cause cellular aging and wrinkles.

Also look for products that contain ingredients that help your skin retain moisture, such as essential fatty acids along with ingredients like lecithin to strengthens kin cell membranes. Look for products that are also third party tested to ensure they are free of environmental toxins. It is important in purchasing essential fats to ensure that you find a pure, well-tested source, free of environmental contaminants.

Several studies have suggested that it is better to get antioxidants through natural food sources instead of supplements, but if this is not possible or additional vitamin intake is needed, supplements can be a valuable help.

SUPPLEMENTS
The following oral supplements that contain the below nutrients can all be helpful to your skin:

Selenium is a powerful antioxidant mineral. Selenium. Some scientific evidence suggests that consumption of selenium may reduce the risk of certain forms of cancer. However, FDA has determined that this evidence is limited and not conclusive. Vitamins A, C, E, B5, alpha lipoic acid, and grape seed extract,  Ester-C , CoQro, lutein, as well as zinc, selenium, copper, and lycopene. Take these supplements according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Taking glucosamine supplements increases hyaluronic acid production. Hyaluronic acid (also called Hyaluronan) is a component of connective tissue whose function is to cushion and lubricate.  Vitamin C can be especially beneficial,  although it is tough to get ample quantities from supplements, every little bit helps. Be cautious of a laxative effect from vitamin C. take small doses at first then build gradually to endure to reaction has occurred. Buffered vitamin C is also available for those with sensitive digestive tracks. Complementing your daily skin care regimen with skin supportive supplements can boost the benefits to your skin.

Treatment for Dry, Sensitive Skin

If you suffer from dry, cracked or sensitive skin – skin that easily reacts to chemicals and temperature fluctuations - then keeping your skin hydrated is essential. If you live in a humid climate where natural moisture is more prevalent, then you are halfway there to better skin. On the flip side, if you live in a high-altitude or desert climate, artificially creating humidity in your home may be the second best option. Since many of us can’t just pick up and move to a new seaside location, using a humidifier in your home or bedroom while you sleep can do wonders for your dry, cracked skin.

While drinking more water will help hydrate your skin to a degree, it isn’t the cure-all for sensitive skin issues. However, the water you use to bathe is very important. Bathing with hard water (which contains increased amounts of calcium) can contribute to dryness and redness. Reverse osmosis water filters will help convert hard water to soft water, if it fits in your budget, it could be a consideration. Water temperature also matters. Dermatologists warm that very hot water temperatures, such as 104 degrees F, can dry out your skin and lead to redness. Gentle hydrotherapy, meaning moderate temperatures with little fluctuations are best for your skin type.

When choosing a special spa treatment, do so with care. Be wise in selecting spa and beauty treatments like exfoliating massages, loofahs, acid-peel facials, and hot steam rooms, which can all strip oils from sensitive, dry skin. Scalding temperatures, intense treatments, running from hot saunas into wintry snow is good for those with resilient skin - not for you. For those with especially sensitive skin, even perfumed bath oils and massage products can be irritating. Aromatherapy massages may be counterproductive if the oils used cause any form of burning or redness. Even getting a manicure or pedicure can cause hyper-reactions when the acetones in nail polishes and removers are irritating.

If you have had serious reactions to spa treatments in the past and need a gentler alternative, consider thalassotherapy. Thalassotherapy was developed in seaside towns in Brittany, France during the 19th century. Based on the belief that the properties of seawater have beneficial effects upon the pores of the skin, trace elements of magnesium, potassium, calcium, sodium, and iodide found in seawater are believed to be absorbed through the skin. The therapy is applied in various forms, as either showers of warmed seawater, application of marine mud or of algae paste or the inhalation of sea fog. Spas make hot seawater and provide mud and seaweed wrapping services.

Very popular throughout Europe, thalassotherapy treatments are used for relaxation, stress management, muscle and skin restoration, and to fight cellulite. If you cannot afford the actual spa treatments, home products containing seaweed or algae can also be effective in hydrating dry, sensitive skin. Another great option to provide more oil distribution to dry skin is massage. Massage is also great for eczema. A recent dermatological study at the University of Miami showed that children with severe dry skin were treated with moisturizer and massage therapy improved more compared to those who were not massaged and were treated with moisturizer alone.

So these are simply guidelines to use when choosing products and treatments to help alleviate your dry skin conditions. As with all hydrotherapy treatments, it is important to limit your immersion in the water to less than one hour so as not to impair the skin barrier. And when purchasing products, always be sure to read the ingredient list for potential irritants.

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