A Scientific Look at Moisturizers Pt. 2

Emollients and Occlusives

Emollients

Emollients, which are mainly lipids and oils, hydrate and improve the appearance of the skin by contributing to skin softness, enhanced flexibility, and smoothness. The “skin slip” or lubricity of some moisturizers, contributes to consumer satisfaction and product preference.5 Consumers desire smooth skin following moisturizer application. Emollients serve to fill the cracks between clusters of desquamating corneocytes and are not usually occlusive unless applied heavily.

Long chain saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols are commonly used in topical pharmaceuticals and cosmetic formulations. They exert their benefits through effects on the skin barrier, partially through improved repair, and on permeability. Examples include stearic, linoleic, linolenic, oleic, and lauric, which can be found in palm oil, coconut oil, and wool fat. A sterol-enriched fraction from canola oil reduced clinical signs of sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)-induced irritation. Other lipids (e.g., fish oil, petrolatum, shea butter, and sunflower seed oil) had no effect on the degree of irritation. Loden and Andersson suggested that canola oil assisted the skin in supplying the damaged barrier with adequate lipids. Essential fatty acids (i.e., linoleic and alpha-linoleic acids) influence skin physiology and pathology via their effects on skin barrier functions, eicosanoid production, membrane fluidity, and cell signaling.

Occlusives

Occlusives reduce TEWL by creating a hydrophobic barrier over the skin and contributing to the matrix between corneocytes, and have the most pronounced effect when applied to slightly dampened skin. There is a wide range of agents with occlusive properties. Their main limitations include odor, potential allergenicity, and the greasy feel associated with most occlusives.

Astringent Emollients
Cyclomethicone, dimethicone, isopropyl myristate, octyl octanoate

Dry Emollients
Decyl oleate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl alcohol

Fatting Emollients
Castor oil, glyceryl stearate, jojoba oil, octyl stearate, propylene glycol

Protective Emollients
Diisopropyl dilinoleate, isopropyl isostearate

Protein Rejuvenators
Collagen, elastin, keratin

Common substances with emollient properties
Fatty Acids
Lanolin acid, stearic acid
Fatty Alcohols
Cetyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, stearyl alcohol
Hydrocarbon Oils/ Waxes
Caprylic/capric triglyderide, mineral oil, paraffin, petrolatum, silicone derivatives (cyclomethicone, dimethicone), squalene

Common substances with occlusive properties

Petroleum jelly, in a minimum concentration of 5%, reduces TEWL by more than 98% and is the most effective occlusive, followed by lanolin, mineral oil, and silicones (e.g., dimethicone), which only reduce TEWL by 20%-30%. Occlusives are thought to diffuse into the intercellular lipid domains, thus contributing to their efficacy. Petrolatum is widely used as a classic moisturizer. Lanolin, a complex structure of esters, diesters, and hydroxyesters of high molecular weight, lanolin alcohols, and lanolin acids, is also widely used and quite effective.

Humectants

Humectants are able to attract water from two sources: they enhance water absorption from the dermis into the epidermis, and in humid conditions they also help the SC to absorb water from the external environment. Many humectants also have emollient properties. The most effective humectant is the trihydroxylated molecule, glycerol. Immature corneocytes are fragile but mature into more resilient and protective cells as they migrate through the SC. Glycerol hastens the maturity of corneocytes through the activation of residual transglutaminase activity in the SC.18 Also, by facilitating the digestion of desmosomes and subsequently enhancing desquamation, glycerol reduces the scaling associated with xerosis.

Gelatin
Glycerin
Honey
Hyaluronic acid
Panthenol
Propylene glycol
Sodium and ammonium lactate
Sodium pyrrolidine carboxylic acid
Sorbital
Urea

Common substances with humectant properties
Found in the NMF, pyrrolidine carboxylic acid hydrates the skin, and has been shown to improve xerosis.20 Urea is another important humectant. In double-blind studies moisturizers with urea have been shown to reduce TEWL in atopic and ichthyotic patients,21,22 and reduce SLS-induced skin irritation.

Alpha hydroxy acids (e.g., lactate) are effective agents for the treatment of dry skin; following treatment with lotions containing D-, L-lactic acid, the SC prevents xerosis more effectively. Lactic acid, particularly the L-isomer, stimulates ceramide biosynthesis leading to higher SC ceramide levels that result in a superior lipid barrier and more effective resistance against xerosis.

One major drawback of humectants is that some of them can increase TEWL3 by enhancing water absorption from the dermis into the epidermis where it can then be lost into the environment. For this reason, they are almost always combined with an occlusive agent. Occlusive and humectant ingredients work together to enhance epidermal hydration and barrier function.

A Scientific Look at Moisturizers (pt.1)

Moisturizers are widely used products that are important in many dermatologic and cosmetic skin therapies. They contain varying combinations of emollients, occlusives, and humectants to achieve their beneficial effects, and there is an overwhelming number of formulations available. To develop a rational approach for prescribing moisturizers, commercially available products can be categorized on the basis of application site.

There is a vast array of moisturizers available on the market today and consumer demand for these products is growing. These products range from value brands that provide basic moisturization to luxury therapeutics with claims of anti-aging benefits. A recent US study found that moisturizers are the third most commonly recommended OTC topical skin product (13.4%) behind hydrocortisone (27.6%) and anti-infectives (23.4%).

What Are Moisturizers?

The term moisturizer is a marketing term with little or no scientific meaning. Consumers see moisturizers as actively increasing the water content of the skin. Dermatologists see moisturizers as bland oleaginous substances that are applied to the skin by rubbing. The term “moisturizer” does not necessarily imply that moisture or water is being added to the skin. Moisturizers are a key component of basic skin care especially when there is alteration of the epidermal barrier and reduced water content in the epidermis.
They are used to restore the barrier function of the epidermis, to cover tiny fissures in the skin, provide a soothing protective film, and increase the water-content of the epidermis. They may, thus, slow evaporation of the skin’s moisture, thereby maintaining hydration and improving the appearance and tactile properties of dry and aging skin. Newer products claim to have other properties such as anti-aging, skin-firming, anticellulite, and sun-protectant effects.

How Do Moisturizers Work?

For many years, epidermal water content has been known to be crucial for skin plasticity and the prevention of “dry skin”. Traditionally, moisturization was believed to inhibit transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by occlusion. Water originates in the deeper epidermal layers and moves upward to hydrate cells in the stratum corneum (SC), eventually being lost to evaporation.

The SC architecture is the most important factor in water flux and retention in the skin, and in overall level of moisturization. The four key processes for the formation and functioning of the SC are the corneocyte process, SC lipid process, natural moisturizing factor (NMF) process, and desquamation process. Corneocytes are the physical barrier of the SC and, when hydrated, contribute to elasticity. The lipid bilayers of the SC function as a moisture barrier and although they prevent the entry of many chemicals, they are the means of entry for most topically applied substances. The NMF is found within corneocytes and is a mix of hygroscopic molecules that, by helping maintain hydration in the corneocyte, keep the SC hydrated. Half of the NMF is amino acids derived from the protein filaggrin in keratinocytes, and the other half is salts, including lactates, urea, and electrolytes. Production of NMF is directly related to external humidity. In desquamation, corneodesmosomes are degraded by water-dependent hydrolytic agents. When there is low moisture in the SC, these enzymes do not work efficiently. Corneocytes accumulate on the skin surface producing the signs of dry skin, e.g., when the moisture content is less than 10%, and when there is loss of continuity of the SC.

The moisturizing treatment involves repairing the skin barrier, retaining/increasing water content, reducing TEWL, restoring the lipid barriers’ ability to attract, hold and redistribute water, and maintaining skin integrity and appearance. Moisturizers perform these functions by acting as humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Moisturizers containing collagen and other proteins, i.e., keratin and elastin, claim to rejuvenate the skin by replenishing its essential proteins but whether or not they have any effect on skin hydration is questionable. Moisturizers also act to reduce skin friction and increase skin hydration by providing water directly to the skin from their water phase and by increasing occlusion, as measured as a decrease in TEWL. Loden suggests that skin care products not only form an inert, epicutaneous layer, but that they also penetrate and influence the structure and function of the skin.

Moisturizers have little effect on the mechanical properties (i.e., distensibility, hysteresis, and elasticity) of the skin but do increase skin hydration significantly, as shown by an increased skin capacitance.10 When moisturizers are used to improve skin plasticity it is suggested that lipid-rich formulations be used.

Emollients

Emollients, which are mainly lipids and oils, hydrate and improve the appearance of the skin by contributing to skin softness, enhanced flexibility, and smoothness. The “skin slip” or lubricity of some moisturizers, contributes to consumer satisfaction and product preference. Consumers desire smooth skin following moisturizer application. Emollients serve to fill the cracks between clusters of desquamating corneocytes and are not usually occlusive unless applied heavily.

Long chain saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols are commonly used in topical pharmaceuticals and cosmetic formulations. They exert their benefits through effects on the skin barrier, partially through improved repair, and on permeability. Examples include stearic, linoleic, linolenic, oleic, and lauric, which can be found in palm oil, coconut oil, and wool fat. A sterol-enriched fraction from canola oil reduced clinical signs of sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)-induced irritation. Other lipids (e.g., fish oil, petrolatum, shea butter, and sunflower seed oil) had no effect on the degree of irritation. Loden and Andersson suggested that canola oil assisted the skin in supplying the damaged barrier with adequate lipids. Essential fatty acids (i.e., linoleic and alpha-linoleic acids) influence skin physiology and pathology via their effects on skin barrier functions, eicosanoid production, membrane fluidity, and cell signaling.

Next article will focus on emollients, occlusives, and humectants and what an ideal moisturizer should be….

J. N. Kraft, BSc (Hons)1 and C. W. Lynde, MD, FRCPC2
1Faculty of Medicine, University of Toronto, Toronto, Ontario, Canada
2University Health Network (Western Division) and Department of Dermatology, University of Toronto, Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Adverse Reactions to Herbal Therapy in Dermatology

There are many herbal therapies available for dermatological diseases that patients have already begun to discover. Dermatologists must be educated not only in the benefits of these therapies, but must also be aware of some of the risks and adverse effects. They need information about the effects of herbal remedies in order to better serve their patients who may be using herbs to treat their dermatological conditions. This brief review summarizes some of the more common herbal therapies used by many dermatology patients for their skin diseases, and the adverse reactions and drug interactions that may occur.

The use of herbal therapy by dermatology patients is on the rise. Because of their convenient availability, many patients with chronic dermatological diseases have attempted to take more control over their health by using herbal remedies along with or instead of conventional treatments. Some patients have lost hope; standard treatments have failed to be effective for them. As a result, they seek newer therapies in an attempt to find a “cure” for their problems.

Government Regulations

The exact frequency of herbal use is not known because of its non-regulatory status. However, some regulations do exist at the federal level in Canada with the Natural Health Products Directorate (est. 03-99). Most of these regulations are still under review. However, regulations do exist with regard to definitions, product licensing, adverse reaction reporting, site licensing, good manufacturing practices, clinical trials, and labeling/packaging.

There are many herbal remedies that have scientific merit; they may be of clinical benefit and provide safe, effective and reliable alternatives to conventional medicine. However, herbal products cannot be patented.² They are intended for the self-treatment of a self-diagnosed, self-limiting condition. Although there are numerous herbal therapies that are relevant to the specialty of dermatology, many of these have not been studied in proper randomized, double-blind, placebo controlled trials. Most herbal treatments have evidence that is based on sparse anecdotal reports and word of mouth.

Drug Interactions and Side-Effects

Many of these therapies are considered “natural” and therefore harmless. However, because of the poor regulations that exist in monitoring these drugs, adverse reactions do occur.³ Herbal therapy, therefore, should be avoided in pregnancy, infants and children because of the uncertainty of adverse reactions that could occur. There is little incentive for pharmaceutical companies to investigate or standardize these preparations because it is unlikely patents would be applicable.

Because of the assumed safety of natural products, many patients believe these products have “fewer” side-effects. Herbal therapies should be regarded as drugs. Since drugs have side-effects, such events can be seen with herbals. Drug interactions although infrequent, can also occur with herbal therapies and conventional medications.^4,8 This may be due to altered absorption, distribution, biotransformation and/or excretion.⁶ These interactions are often patient initiated because of the lack of consultation with a physician. These effects can increase or decrease the activity of the corresponding drugs and lead to untoward or unexpected adverse events or changes in drug efficacy. Some herbals may be contaminated with toxic substances or the herbal can be toxic alone. Others may have traces of potent topical steroids.⁷ This makes it even more important for physicians to take a proper and complete drug history, including herbal medications.

Drug	Side-Effects	Drug Interactions
Zemaphyte (Chinese Herbal Therapy)6,10-14	Diarrhea, increased liver function tests, reversible dilated cardiomyopathy, reversible acute hepatic illness, fatal hepatic necrosis, symptomatic nephropathy & bladder carcinoma, worsening of atopic dermatitis, acute urticaria	Methotrexate
Evening Primrose Oil (EPO)(Efamol®)4,6,8	GI upset, headaches	phenothiazines, seizure threshold of phenobarbital, phenytoin
Borage Oil15	Potential for hepatotoxicity orally, no toxicity data for topical use	None Known (NK)
Aloe Vera4,6,8,9,16	Contact dermatitis	corticosteroids, Potassium
Calendula (Calendula officionalis)4,8,9,16	Allergic reactions, ACD	NK
Capsaicin (Zostrix®)8,9,16	Severe burning, intolerability, allergy: can cross react with latex, bananas, kiwi, chestnut, avocado	NK
Goldenseal (Hydratis canadensi)4	Allergic Contact Dermatitis	NK
Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabralensis or ura)4,6,8,16	Contraindicated in hypertension, diabetes mellitus, hypokalemia, liver/kidney disorders	Cyclosporin A (CyA) , digoxin, prednisone, thiazides
Purple Cone Flower (Echinacea angustifolia or internalpupurea) 4	Recurrent erythema nodosum CAUTION!: in HIV, CTD, TB, MS, ragweed, sunflower allergies	Immunomodulators and CyA, Methotrexate, coticosteroids
Slippery Elm Bark (Ulmas fulva)	Dermatitis CAUTION! Oral form induces miscarriage	NK
St. Johns Wort (Hypericum perforatum)4,6	Oral form can cause photosensitivity, erectile dysfunction	amitriptyline CyA , digoxin, paroxetine, HIV protease inhibitors, oral contraceptives, retrovirals
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)4	Essential oils can be a mucous membrane irritant	NK
Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba) Garlic, Ginger, Ginseng (Panax ginseng)4,8,17	Can cause spontaneous bleeding	Can potentiate aspirin, NSAIDs, warfarin, heparin
Tea Tree Oil (Melaleuca alternifolia)6,8,9	ext- ACD, burning, dryness, itching, 5 irritation, systemic allergic reactions, can cross react with colophony. int- TOXIC	NK
Bromelain-Pineapple (Ananas comosus)16	ACD, GI upset, diarrhea	Ethyl acrylate
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)16	ACD	NK
Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum)16	ext-Skin irritation int-Hypoglycemia	Hypoglycemics
Chamomile (Matricaria recuita L)4,6,9,16,18	ACD, anaphylaxis	Hypersensitivity cross-reactions to ragweed, Chrysanthemums (Compositae family)
Arnica (A Montana)8,9	ext-ACD int-TOXIC	NK
Horse Chestnut seed extract (Aesculus hippocastanum)6,8	ext-ACD int-Dizziness, drug induced lupus, GI upset, headache, pruritus	NK

Table 2: Side-effects and drug interactions of some herbal remedies

The most common dermatologic reaction from herbal therapies is allergic contact dermatitis.⁸ Herbs that are known for causing this condition include: aloe, arnica, bromelain, calendula, chamomile, goldenseal, tea tree oil and yarrow.^6,4,9 However, more serious events have occurred including erythroderma and Stevens-Johnson syndrome from combination herbal preparations.⁸ Serious systemic adverse events have been reported with herbal therapies for the treatment of dermatological diseases as well.⁷ Most are hepatotoxic effects and some have been fatal although this is rare.⁸ Herbals that are recommended for topical use should not be ingested and vice-versa. Drug interactions that most commonly occur are due to immunomodulatory reactions, however effects on anticonvulsants and anticoagulants can occur.⁵

Conclusion

A brief search of the literature reveals many therapies used for dermatological disease however there are fewer reports of their side effects in dermatologic or medical literature. Only those therapies relevant to the specialty of dermatology that also have had reports of side-effects are discussed. Those therapies without known side-effects are excluded from this manuscript. It is important for dermatologists to become aware of these adverse events and interactions in order to better educate their patients and possibly prevent potential and unexpected adverse reactions.⁸

Identifying Skin Lesions - Warts, Moles and SebKs

By Van Le |  While freckles can add to a person’s beauty and uniqueness, other skin lesions such as large moles, skin tags, warts, and seborrheic keratoses can be unsightly and embarrassing. Most lesions are malignant (non-cancerous), however, it is important to be aware of and track any skin abnormalities on your body as a preventative measure.

Freckles

Freckles are irritating for some and embraced by others. They are pigment cells that retain within the skin to form light brown spots, and individuals with lighter complexions are more susceptible to freckles since their skin contains less melanin. Freckles, also known as ephelides, can appear on the face, arms and other sun-exposed areas. Excessive and continued exposure to harmful UV rays can cause more freckles and cause them to appear darker. While they are harmless, it is important to distinguish between freckles and symptoms of melanoma, a type of skin cancer that can grow from an existing freckle. Consult your doctor if you notice any change in freckle size, shape and color.

Skin tags

Skin tags are pieces of skin that hang from the surface of a surrounding area. Like freckles, they are benign, but can cause irritation if located on an area that is exposed to constant contact, such as the eyelids or areas where they can be snagged by jewelry or clothing. Skin tags can vary from a small pin-point size to a large grape size. While some can fall off on their own, there are several ways to medically remove skin tags, including freezing and burning. There are home remedies as well as creams available on the market to remove unwanted and embarrassing skin tags.

Seborrheic keratoses

Seborrheic keratoses, another benign skin lesion, can form anywhere on the body, but is commonly found on the chest and back. They can be distinguished from other types of lesions due to their waxy, stuck-on-the-skin appearance and often described as brown candle wax stuck on the skin. While the cause is still unknown, scientists have found that they can be hereditary and not affected by sun exposure.

Warts

Most warts are skin infections caused by viruses of the human papillomavirus (HPV) family. Basically, warts are benign tumors of the epidermis (outer layer of skin), and can occur in people of all ages, but are most commonly found on children and teenagers. There are different types, including flat and plantar warts. Flat warts are small in size but can be high in quantity, can spread to other areas of the body by shaving or scratching, and can be transferred person-to-person by physical contact. Plantar warts grow on the heel, ball or sole of the foot, and pressure from standing or walking pushes them into the deeper layers of skin.

Skin lesions like warts, seborrheic keratoses and skin tags are often harmless, but they can be embarrassing. While they can be surgically removed, there are creams and ointments available on the market to remove and reduce their appearance. If you have further questions about a particular skin lesion, consult your doctor or pharmacist for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Van Le is a staff writer for the CSU Daily Titan and writing intern for Vivoderm Laboratories in Los Angeles, California. She is currently pursuing a Journalism degree at California State University, Fullerton.

For the latest findings on skin lesions and treatments, you can also link to http://www.dermatosispapulosanigra.net

Guidelines for Using Zinc Oxide to Treat Acne

There has been a lot of press recently about Zinc and Zinc Oxide in skincare and cosmetic products. Zinc can be found in many natural sunscreens ans well as moisturizing lotions and creams.  Zinc - or Micronized zinc oxide -  is produced by high temperature processing of minerals that contain zinc. Some brands contain micronized zinc oxide, combined with an inert ingredient derived from silica. The result is a naturally protective product to protect you from the sun’s damaging UV and UVB rays.

Zinc is a mineral and it is also believed that it has curative properties on a skin where there are acne growths and can reduce the symptoms of acne. Many alternative studies have indicated that this is not the case. So is there a connection between the two?

According to research carried out in recent years, zinc has the same properties of antibiotics such as tetracycline and it can fight the acne bacteria efficiently without the negative effects of antibiotics. Reportedly, zinc also enhances the immunity of the body when ingested as a supplement. So what is zinc and what is the zinc acne connection all about? How does the zinc acne treatment affect the sufferers and what is the best way to use this treatment?

You will find traces of the zinc mineral in various food items such as mushrooms, soybeans, legumes, fish, sunflower seeds, egg yolks, soy lecithin and also in whole grains. Zinc is also present in many herbs such as dandelion, eyebright, cayenne, chamomile, mullein, nettle, milk thistle, alfalfa and in the burdock root. Zinc forms a part of insulin and can be found in the tissues.

There are many useful properties of zinc like providing the person with energy, prohibiting blindness, aiding the process of digestion by being a part of enzymes, supporting the reaction of more than 30 enzymes, strengthening the immunity, regulation of Vitamin E in the blood, helping the body absorb Vitamin A and B, speeding up the process of healing, regulating insulin, and it also fights bacteria. Zinc is also present in estrogen, testosterone and growth hormones.

So how does zinc help a person suffering from acne?  Zinc moisturizers and sunscreens may be a good first step to taking care of your skin from the outside.

The causes of acne are all internal and they are imbalance in the level of hormones and build up toxic materials within the body. The hormones are responsible for producing oils, and the zinc can regulate the oil glands, and so if you can take them correctly (that is in the right quantity, quality and the correct essential fatty acids) you will be able to have some control over the level of hormones and this will ease the symptoms of your acne greatly.

Zinc also helps absorb Vitamin A, and fights the bacteria that causes acne by strengthening the immune system, helps the body heal wounds and contains anti oxidant properties. All these are useful in tackling the secondary causes of acne and will help you greatly reduce the symptoms of acne.

Another ability of zinc for acne is that it can regulate the production of hormones, which is a main reason one acquires acne. However for this to happen, it needs to be taken in the correct quantity and in combination with essential fatty acids. This mineral needs to be properly absorbed within the body and work together with other nutrients for the hormones to be balanced.

While zinc as an acne treatment may be effective, it is very important however to take care and not mix it with some chemical substances, supplements and food items because they will make the zinc less effective.  You should always consult your doctor or research a supplement before taking any internal treatments.

There are some food items, ( inhibitors) like supplements and physical conditions that can prevent zinc from being properly absorbed in the body. This may significantly reduce the impact of zinc on the acne.

One of these inhibitors is Phytic acid.  Usually found in high levels in grains. The acid can reduce the absorption by about 15%.  And thus, those who are suffering from acne need to reduce their grain consumption to one to two servings a day. Grains may lead to mucus and acidity and taking them with zinc for acne can be a challenge.

Another zinc inhibitor is soy protein. If you are using zinc for an acne treatment, you need to eat less soy as it can bind to minerals and lead to less zinc absorption. Then there are other minerals like copper and inorganic iron. They also come in the way of zinc for acne bio-availability. However this issue can be solved easily, unless of course you are suffering from copper toxicity. Try not to take copper more than 2-3 mg a day and also do not take inorganic iron supplements.

Too much of physical exertion may lead to an increased demand by the body for zinc and thus, when you are exercising, you need to also take more zinc for acne treatments.

Following these tips and zinc guidines should have you well on your way to beautiful skin in no time!

The Derma Roller Skin Treatments

What is the Derma Roller or Skin Needling?

Recently, while walking around at the 2009 Beauty Expo in Long Beach, CA, I noticed a large number of booths selling these small rolling devices, covered with many short needles. Curious whether these were new parenting tools to scare unruly children or for skincare, I decided to research it further. The cosmetic representatives claimed these new facial rollers could increase collagen production and reduce wrinkles.

The derma roller is a very small rolling device that contains 192 micro points made of surgical steel. While it goes by different names, ‘skin needling,’ ‘dermaroller,’ or ‘meso roller,’ among many others, it appears to be a simple and natural method that promises to prevent skin aging, restore collagen, smooth out scars, pitted skin, and stretch marks - or your money back in some cases.

Research On Skin Needling

The skin needling device is used along with your normal skincare routine to remove acne scars, stretch marks, wrinkles, fine lines. Representatives say it can even help with big pores, black heads, and white heads. This micro needling or skin needling anti-aging technique is also used to perform collagen induction therapy (CIT). Studies show that when this device is rolled over the skin, it creates small puncture wounds which cause the body to produce collagen in an attempt to heal the skin. Our collagen production falls dramatically after about age 35 or so.

How the Derma Roller Works

Published instructions say when you roll this device over the skin it creates small puncture wounds into the top layer of the skin. This puncturing will then cause a type of wound-healing reaction for the dermal layer to begin production of collagen fibers, elastin, and other skin cells that helps to fill in lines, wrinkles, remove stretch marks and fill in deep pitted scars – also allowing the derma roller to be a great acne scar treatment.

In addition, the derma roller allows for optimum absorption of any anti-aging cream you may use afterwards. Each time you use the derma roller, the collagen building effects continue for weeks- smoothing stretch marks, acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles.

Unlike other skin rejuvenating techniques, the derma roller doesn’t require downtime for healing. And, unlike chemical or laser peels, the derma roller can be used safely by women and men of color because it doesn’t affect skin pigmentation.

The Studies

In 1994, Dr. Philippe Simonin, a Swiss Dermatologist, performed a study on 600 people divided into two groups - the skin-aging group and the scar reduction group. Published results found that in the skin aging group there was a 40% significant improvement and an impressive 60% improvement in scar reduction group.

Another doctor, Dr. Andre Camirand, a plastic surgeon from Canada, found that skin needling improved the texture and depression of scars and also improved over-all skin color and texture. He also found this remodeling process can go on up to 12 months from each treatment.

Further study results by plastic surgeons and dermatologists claim in that addition to reducing the appearance of sun damage and wrinkles, (such as crows feet), skin needling can help lessen or remove stretch marks, cellulite, acne scars, surgical scars and smooth out pitted skin and dimpling.

In addition, it allows maximum absorption of your best wrinkle creams or any anti aging creams. Each rolling session can stimulate collagen to reduce wrinkles and scars - like a mini-instant face lift.

Removing Blackheads and Comedones

Eliminate blackheads and whiteheads

Blackheads are tiny, dark spots caused by a small plug in the opening of a follicle (pore) on the skin. Blackheads are also called open comedomes. A blackhead is a type of acne vulgaris. It is caused by excess oils that have accumulated in the sebaceous gland ’s duct. Blackheads are typically caused by excessive oil and makeup, which can facilitate the multiplication of the bacterium propionibacterium acnes, the predominant anaerobe of the normal skin flora. The substance found in these bumps mostly consists of keratin and modified sebum (an oily secretion of the sebaceous gland ), which darkens (resembling dirt) as it oxidizes.

If you suffer from blackheads or whiteheads and need to know which products are best. Look for non-comedogenic products - they are less likely to cause blackheads (called open comedones) or whiteheads (closed comedones). Most brands of make-up are non-comedogenic, which means they won’t clog your pores. If your skin is prone to acne or
especially sensitive, try to find products that are non-comedogenic, oil-free (water-based), hypoallergenic (unlikely to cause an allergic reaction) and fragrance free. It may be helpful to remove make-up before exercise, as the products can travel across the face through sweat and clog your pores. However, since no product is non-comedogenic for everybody, it’s a good idea to first test any new product on a small area of your own skin.

Blackheads are the slightly different sibling of pimples, and like pimples, squeezing them can be damaging. Composed of the same oil, or sebum, that contributes to the production of pimples, blackheads result from a building up of this oil in pores. The difference in appearance than that of a pimple is the result of the blackhead’s exposure to the air.
The oxidation (or darkening)  of the the oil causes the trademark black color of these blemishes.

While blackheads are more easily obscured by makeup, they can seem less offensive to the sufferer, and as a result, less damaging to squeeze. But squeezing is not good for blackheads. It can leave a permanent scar on skin and also leaves your skin open to infection. Comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) are caused by the densely packed skin cells. Comedones, commonly appear on the face and shoulders, but they may also develop on the trunk, arms, legs,
and buttocks. They are most common in teenagers but can occur at any age, even in infants.

Treatment for whiteheads and blackheads depends on the severity of the condition. Treatment may include lotions or gels placed on blemishes or sometimes entire areas of skin, such as the chest or back (topical medications). Oral medications, such as antibiotics, may be prescribed.

Causes of Blackheads

Blackheads are caused when excess skin oil, sebum and congesting toxins are expelled through your skin from the blood and lymph fluid that supplies your skin with nutrients. These congesting toxins combined with skin oil and sebum clogs your pores causing blackheads, whiteheads, and full blown acne. Dirt also plays a big role in developing skin blackheads. The dirt stored on the face or other parts of body help the bacteria to develop.

Symptoms of Blackheads

Blackheads and whiteheads are a combination of oils, sebum and cellular fragments that form firm to hard plugs within hair follicles. Blackheads are open to the skin’s surface and become darkened at the surface by exposure to oxygen (oxidation). They are called open comedones (or comedo, singular). Whiteheads are closed from the skin’s surface by
cellular debris at the follicle opening. Because they are closed from oxygen they do not oxidize or turn brown. They form a light or yellow-white lump and are called milia (or milium, singular). When bacteria is added to these plugs, the condition can lead to acne.

Treatment of of Blackheads

Mild cases of acne can be self-treated with over-the-counter topicals (applied to the skin) creams typically with benzoyl peroxide. Zinc Oxide is also a safe natural alternative to reduce infections. There are also a variety of different medications that your family physician might prescribe that come as creams, ointments, and pills. Some of the stronger medications for acne are not to be used if you are pregnant, so make sure you tell your doctor if this is a possibility. Most acne medications work by reducing the next “crop” of acne, so don’t get discouraged if the treatment does not work right away.

Home Remedy for Blackheads
1. In 3-4 cup boiled water, add 2 tsp of soda bicarbonate. Steam a towel with this. Thereafter, place the towel gently on your face. Do it for about 5-6 times. Make a paste by mixing 1 tsp curd and 1 tsp rice flour.  Apply the paste on the affected area. After some time, wash your face with cold water.

2. Take about 1 tsp of juice extracted from fresh coriander leaves and add ½ tsp of turmeric powder in it. Apply this mixture while going to bed. Wash your face the next morning with cold water.

3. Take a pinch of soft portion of glycerin soap and mix with a pinch of table salt. Apply this mixture on the blackheads. Do it for about a week and see the magical results.

4. Salicylic acid, glycolic acid, benzyl peroxide, etc. can be counter-productive to softening and dissolving blackheads and whiteheads as they can dehydrate dry, normal and combination skin

5. Make a paste by mixing 1 tsp limejuice and 1 tsp of finely powdered cinnamon. Apply it on the affected area before going to bed. Wash it off in the morning.

When looking over other strategies on how to remove blackheads, you want to make sure that you are not using your fingernails to squeeze. Your fingernails could be loaded with all kinds of bacteria, which could cause infections. If you do decide to squeeze, make sure you are properly cleaning and sterilizing your hands or using a tissue, to reduce the risk of infection.

Exercise caution. Squeezing a blackhead too much or too soon may lead to the rupturing of a blood vessel. Even though this is a rare occurrence, it can still happen. If you find this happening to you, do not continue to squeeze the blackhead because you may make it worse.

Blue Light Therapy for Healing Acne

By Van Le |  After trying countless of potions and lotions to no avail, some acne sufferers are turning to technology and hoping that blue light therapy, a new scientific advancement, will pave the way for acne-free skin. Considered a form of laser treatment, the procedure involves emitting a blue light source (with visible spectrum of 406 to 426 nm) to the affected areas. The high-intensity light kills the bacteria that can cause acne breakouts. Blue light therapy is approved by the U.S. Food and Drugs Administration as a legal and safe procedure for the treatment of mild to moderate acne vulgaris. As a result, it is a widely advertised and highly popular form of treatment among acne sufferers.

Unlike creams and ointments that treat acne on a topical level, blue light therapy targets bacteria underneath the skin, eliminating the problem from the root. It works by adding oxygen to skin cells, which leads to a chemical reaction inside acne bacteria, causing the bacteria to self-destruct. With fewer bacteria, the number of buildups and acne lesions begin to decrease. The treatment stems from the belief that sunlight reduces acne, but also emits dangerous UV rays that can lead to premature aging and cancer. Since blue light does not contain any UV rays, it provides all the benefits without any of the damage. Most patients report little to no negative side effects, and the treatment can be used on several parts of the body including the face, back and chest. In conjunction with blue light, some dermatologists recommend undergoing red light therapy since it helps nourish damaged tissues and speed up the production of acne-free skin.

Like other laser treatments, blue light therapy is most effective when administered in multiple sessions. Although the length and time of treatment varies, most patients undergo treatment sessions that typically last for 20 minutes and normally done twice a week for at least four weeks. The cost for blue light therapy can range from $50 to $150 for a single treatment, and up to $3000 for a full treatment package. Due to its cosmetic nature, it is not covered by most insurance plans.

Van Le is a staff writer for the CSU Daily Titan and writing intern for Vivoderm Laboratories in Los Angeles, California. She is currently pursuing a Journalism degree at California State University, Fullerton.

For the latest findings on natural skincare and anti-aging, you can also link to http://organicskintreatment.net

Harmful Skincare Ingredients in Pregnancy

By Van Le | Many pregnant women radiate that natural special “glow”, however, hormonal changes can also influence new reactions to certain chemicals. Knowing what, and more importantly, what not to put into your body during those nine months can affect the well-being of you and your baby. What to put on your body is no different. Since some skincare products can seep into the bloodstream, pregnant women should avoid the following ingredients.

Retinoids

Due to the ability to accelerate cell growth and renewal, retinoids (a type of Vitamin A) are commonly found in many anti-aging products. While Vitamin A is vital for growth and development of the fetus, excessive amounts can lead to birth defects. A study conducted in 1995 suggests that women who consume more than the recommended amount of Vitamin A in the first two months of their pregnancy doubled the risk of having a child with birth defects, according to the March of Dimes website. Topical application of retinoids has not been proven to be harmful, but as a precaution, many doctors and the National Institute of Health advise pregnant patients to stay away from skincare products containing this ingredient.

Salicylic Acid

Acne can wreak havoc anytime, but can be especially frustrating during pregnancy. Salicylic acid is a powerful and common remedy to help sooth inflammations and reduce redness caused by acne pimples, however, it can be harmful for the developing fetus. Medical experts have yet to pinpoint the exact amount of salicylic acid to deem as harmful, but believe that it can lead to respiratory problems for both the mother and baby.

Oxybenzone and Avobenzone

Just because you’re pregnant does not mean you can’t have some fun in the sun. As always, sun protection is pivotal, especially during hours of 10am and 4pm, when the sun’s UVA and UVB rays are most harmful. During the 1970s the Food and Drug Administration approved oxybenzone and avobenzone as safe UVA absorbers, however, a study done at Mt. Sinai School of Medicine in New York states that oxybenzone may cause lower birth weight in baby girls and has also been linked to cell damage and allergies. Avobenzone is capable of absorbing UVA lights, making it effective in sunscreen products, however, it can be absorbed into the skin, therefore, some healthcare professionals encourage expecting mothers to stay away from products containing oxybenzone and avobenzone. A safe sunscreen alternative is zinc oxide, which is made of organic ingredients that siton top of the skin as a protective barrier. Physical sun protection such as clothing as hats are also effective and highly recommended by doctors.

An expecting mother may not have total control over her cravings or hormones, but can dictate which products and ingredients go in and on her body. Most pregnant women abstain from products that have been proven as dangerous and unsafe, such as alcohol and cigarettes. A commitment to stay away from potentially harmful ingredients can also have long-lasting positive effects for both the mother and unborn child.

Van Le is a staff writer for the CSU paper the Daily Titan and writing intern for Vivoderm Laboratories in Los Angeles, California. She is currently pursuing a Journalism degree at California State University, Fullerton.

For the latest findings on natural skincare link to http://naturalantiagingproducts.net

End of Summer Skincare and Zinc Sun Protection

By Van Le | Labor Day can be bittersweet since it offers an always-welcomed three-day weekend, but it also marks the unofficial end of summer. In other words, after one last frolic at the beach, it’s time to put away the swimming suits and flip-flops, and wake the winter coats and boots from their hiatus. The seasonal closet makeover is a no-brainer, but there’s another place that needs attention: your makeup and skincare cabinet. Towards the end of the year, your skin needs protection from cold weather and reduced humidity. Switching to winter-friendly products can keep your skin looking healthy and beautiful.

Hot, humid weather during the summer can cause pores to expand because sebum is more fluid in this environment. As a result, deep cleansers and foamy cleansing products are appropriate, since they are able to reach deep into the pores, eliminating dirt and oil buildups. During the winter, however, cold temperatures can lead to dry and cracked skin. Switch to a mild soap, and your skin will feel smooth and soft as opposed to dry and tight after washing. Products that contain natural moisture such as Aloe vera are also excellent, since they are not harsh on dry, winter skin.

Winter air literally sucks moisture from your skin, so moisturizing is a crucial step in winter skin care. Even more important to moisturizing is choosing the right product. Products containing mineral oil, almond oil, or avocado oil work especially well since they keep the skin hydrated without clogging pores. Flaxseed oil is another beneficial ingredient, since it is not only rich in omega-3 fatty acid, but also has the ability to hydrate the skin from the inside out. Moisturizing right after a warm shower will help seal in the water and prevent dry skin. Also consider using a humidifier in your room or office, since it returns the moisture into the air and help the skin stay hydrated.

Just because it is cold outside does not mean you should toss your sunscreen tube. Even when you can’t feel the heat, the sun is still emitting harmful UVA and UVB rays, so it still important to protect your skin. Apply a moisturizer that contains an SPF of at least 15, or use products containing zinc oxide, which acts as a natural barrier between your skin and the sun. Surprisingly, the sun’s reflective power on snow can be as high as 80%, so it is possible to be sunburned after spending a day on the ski slopes without sun protection. Moreover, don’t forget to help your lips battle harsh winter conditions with plenty of lip balm. Packaging is also important when deciding on a lip balm. Little tins and jars can spread germs since you are using your fingers to apply. Tubes can be a healthier and more convenient option. Remember to keep your skincare products readily available in your purse, car or desk so you can reapply throughout the day.

Winter skin care may differ from summer skin care in the type of products used, but the regimen for healthy skin is the same year round: cleanse, moisturize and protect.

Van Le is a staff writer for the CSU paper the Daily Titan and writing intern for Vivoderm Laboratories in Los Angeles, California. She is currently pursuing a Journalism degree at California State University, Fullerton.

For the latest findings on natural skincare link to http://www.bestnaturalsoap.net

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